February 28, 2024
Tucson Finds
By Mary MacGill.
Interview by Sylvia Estes.
Photography by Em McCann Zauder.
SE: How long have you been going to the Tucson Gem Show?
MM: Since 2013 – the February after my first Farmer’s Market summer on Block Island. I stopped on a cross country road trip and met up with my mom.
SE: Can you briefly describe the show, how is it laid out?
MM: The gem show spans the entirety of the city of Tucson. Vendors from all over the world set up in convention centers, hotels, and tents that span parks.
SE: What is your approach to sourcing stones and how do you make stone selections? Do you have a system or is your process more intuitive?
MM: I always follow my eye… which generally leads me to blues, greens, pearls, and warmer golden tones. I look for shades that are saturated, yet subtle with hints of gray, stones that showcase impurities and stable inclusions, shapes that are unique and organic. I like to work with vendors that maintain their own stone cutting factories in Jaipur, and smaller pearl vendors with a connection to the farming process. My sourcing has changed as I learn more about the industry and continue to ask questions about general practices. I hope to go to Jaipur in the next year or so to visit our vendors and spend time with stone cutters, maybe even design some custom shapes.
SE: What are you keeping your eye out for specifically this year?
MM: Green tourmaline – It’s my favorite stone (in direct competition with Aquamarine) and we receive a ton of requests from customers for more pieces featuring green tourmaline. Unfortunately it’d become fairly hard to find good quality green tourmaline at a price that isn’t out of the question. But I enjoy the hunt and it makes the pieces we make with it all that more special. Montana Sapphires – I still find it incredible that we can source stones in the US. I discovered Montana Sapphires while shopping for a custom request and the colors are gorgeous – almost a hybrid of green tourmaline and aquamarine.
SE: What is the most exciting aspect of the show?
MM: The rush of finding beautiful materials, of discovering stones from all over the world in different sizes and tones and cuts. It’s endless and spurs so many new ideas.
SE: What is something that surprised you at this year’s show?
MM: I'm always shocked by the enormity of the bath tubs carved out of crystals -- the shear amount of crystals at the show is wild!
SE: Can you describe your process from initial stone selection to final piece?
MM: I look for stones that hit the notes of the language we’ve created and then figure out which style makes sense in regards to size, weight, and orientation of the material. Smaller beads are selected for layering necklaces, larger, lighter stones work well as drop earrings, I tend to put faceted gems into rings or necklaces. Once I decide what a material lends itself to, I go about constructing it, or giving instructions to the team in our studio. Some pieces are very straight forward and click into an established style, some take more exploration at the bench if we’re creating a new design.
SE: Do you form relationships with vendors?
MM: I’ve worked with a handful of vendors over the years and have established a few key relationships . Stone mining and cutting is a bit of an archaic field in many ways, and most glaringly in that it is very male dominated. Navigating this has taught me how to negotiate, how to walk away when needed, and ask a ton of questions. The best vendors have good answers, remain curious, are able to experiment with new cutting techniques, and understand the value of a long term relationship with designers.
SE: Do you go to the show alone, or do you have a companion?
MM: A number of different people from the MM team have been on the trip, but it’s tradition for my mom to come with me. She has a knack for identifying new stones that I eventually come around to – i.e. she is my trend forecaster.
SE: Do you have other places in Tucson you like to visit while you’re there?
MM: Desert Vintage – the most beautiful vintage store, ever.
The African Village – beaded chairs, carved wood furniture, mudcloth.
Seven Falls – gorgeous hiking.
Penca – my favorite restaurant, a blend of traditional and modern Central Mexican cuisine.
